Amid political turmoil and economic instability in Latin America, many Chinese Latinos immigrated to the United States, particularly to New York City. During the latter part of the 20th century, the arrival of Chinese-Cubans contributed significantly to the vibrant Chino-Latino cuisine scene. In the late 1960s, these immigrants began opening restaurants on the Upper West Side to serve the working-class Latino community. La Dinastia, perhaps the most famous Chino-Latino restaurant in New York City, stands as a symbol of this cultural heritage.

A photo of Juan Lam, the founder of La Dinastía, in the early 1990s with his restaurant, given to the New York Times.

One reason I believe Chino-Latino restaurants are such important and unique spaces is that the coexistence of Asian and Latino identities in these settings is not viewed as "other." In the United States, there is often a binary expectation to fit into and fully embody a singular racial category. For many, the Chinese-Latino identity can be particularly complex—even for myself, at times. Race, ethnicity, and nationality are not concepts that can be fluid in the ways we are taught about them in school. Moreover, Chino-Latino restaurants have served as spaces where my community has been able to positively contribute to the local community, while also preserving our rich culture and history when it is often untold.

Despite the importance of Chino-Latino restaurants, many have faced decline due to gentrification, prompting an ongoing fight to preserve AANHPI culture and history through these culinary spaces. “Specifically on the Upper West Side, there used to be so many Chino-Latino restaurants,” said Richard Lam, whose father founded La Dinastia, in an interview with Audacy. “Literally on almost every corner on Broadway from about 72nd Street to 101st Street. It was kind of just the trend back then.”

This loss highlights the complexities of cultural identity and local history. However, the efforts of community members, particularly on social media, have sparked a reemergence of support for the Chino-Latino restaurant scene. In a 2023 New York Times article titled "A New Hope for Manhattan’s Chino Latino Restaurants: TikTok," Christina Morales reports on how social media has helped repopularize Chino-Latino restaurants. "Mr. Lam’s [the owner of La Dinastía] struggle to stay relevant recently received a boost from an unlikely source: a series of widely viewed TikTok videos posted in the last few months from the account @RighteousEats, which has brought scores of new customers to the diner."

As you explore the sources below, reflect on what it means to be Chinese-Latino and the significance of Chino-Latino restaurants within both the diaspora and the history of New York City. Do any of the experiences shared resonate with your own? How might these perspectives influence or reshape your understanding of what it means to be “Asian” and “Latino”? Consider how cultural traditions and personal identity intersect, and how this might present new insights or familiar connections for you.

SOURCES

Jeremiah’s Vanishing New York

Here, you can see two community responses to the closing of Chino-Latino restaurants through Jeremiah’s Vanishing New York Blog. Visit the site directly, reading through the comments on the blog posts, and focus on New York residents’ insights regarding the closure of Chino-Latino restaurants. Reflect on the implications of these closures, considering aspects like cultural significance and community identity. Think about how the loss of these restaurants affects local communities and what it reveals about broader socioeconomic changes in the city.

Chinese Latino Fusion || Barrio USA

Latin Asians | Asian American Life

Oral History Archive: MOCA’s Chino-Latino Project

This collection includes interviews with people of Chinese descent who immigrated to Central and South America before settling in the U.S. The interviews explore themes of identity in New York and were featured in a 1998 exhibit at MOCA and the Bronx Museum of the Arts.

Local Chinese-Latino Restaurant Recommendations

1. La Dinastía: 145 W. 72nd St & 4059 Broadway – Landmark Chinese-Cuban spot
2. La Nueva Victoria: 32-05 Broadway, Queens – Formerly Nuevo Jardín De China
3. Flor De Mayo: Multiple UWS & Harlem locations – Chinese-Peruvian cuisine
4. Calle Dão: Midtown, Chelsea, Greenwich Village – Chinese-Cuban fusion
5. Caridad China: 108 Graham Ave, Brooklyn – Chinese Puerto-Rican food
6. New Apolo: 508 Grand St, 1477 Myrtle Ave, 2899 Fulton St – Central American/Chinese fusion
7. China Cocina: 103-10 Roosevelt Ave, Queens – beloved neighborhood fusion spot
8. Sabrosura Restaurant: 1200 Castle Hill Ave, Bronx – Chino-Latino & seafood specialties